Old-School Winemaking, Zero Pretense
If you’re into wines that play by the rules, Jonata’s 2018 ‘Todos’ might not be for you. But if you like a wine that confidently tosses the rulebook out the window—then makes a bonfire with it in a beautifully manicured vineyard—this is the bottle for you. Jonata is owned by Stan Kroenke, the same man behind Screaming Eagle, so yes, there’s some serious pedigree here. But rather than soaring in Napa’s rarified air, Jonata decided to dig into the sandy soils of Ballard Canyon and build something a little more rebellious—and frankly, a lot more interesting.
From just 84 vine-covered acres out of a sprawling 586-acre estate (because apparently, restraint is the new luxury), Jonata produces wines with a fiercely individual spirit. The estate is part vineyard, part sustainable utopia—with livestock, communal gardens, and a farming philosophy that sounds like something Wendell Berry would toast with a Syrah. Winemaker Matt Dees channels this eccentric vision into wines that are complex, age-worthy, and—perhaps most importantly—just plain delicious.
‘Todos’ is Jonata’s estate blend, a chaotic and glorious ten-variety chorus led by Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, and Merlot. It smells like a spice drawer met a wildflower patch—violet candy, balsamic, espresso, black cherry—and tastes even better. Syrah does the aromatics, Cabernet takes the palate, and the rest of the cast fills in with a dark, savory richness buffered by bright acidity and the kind of tannins that make you raise an eyebrow in quiet appreciation.
2018 delivered the kind of vintage winemakers have recurring dreams about—long, slow ripening under postcard skies, no heat spikes, and just enough rain to wash the grapes’ faces. The result? A wine that’s graceful now, but with enough backbone to earn its place in your cellar—or your dinner table rotation for the next decade, if patience isn’t your strong suit.
Only 2,640 cases were made, which is about the number of people still pretending they discovered Jonata before it was cool. Let us know if you’d like a few before it disappears behind a Michelin-starred wine list or a collector’s locked cabinet.
Always a good value, the 2018 Todos checks in as a kitchen sink blend of 45% Syrah, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Petit Verdot, 9% Petite Sirah, and the rest Merlot and other miscellaneous varieties. Its inky, glass-staining purple color is followed by a beautiful bouquet of smoked black fruits, bouquet garni, peppered meat, and hints of crushed rock. It's rich, medium to full-bodied, beautifully balanced, and just a gorgeous wine.
95 Points, Jeb Dunnuck
